Location:  Chitabe Camp, Chitabe Concession, Botswana
Date:   27 October 2009
Observers:  Grant Atkinson and Helena Faasen

The 2009 high water levels in the Okavango Delta are now a thing of the past.  One result of this year’s big flood is the exciting bird watching opportunities that are currently possible as thousands of fish become trapped by the receding waters.

These fish are a magnet for many species of water birds, and on a recent visit to Chitabe Camp we got to experience some of the action associated with these so-called “fish traps.” Instead of viewing birds just flying overhead, or standing somewhere, the fish traps bring many species together and the interaction that occurs between them is fascinating.

Forced into close proximity with one another, the birds compete, cooperate, fight and steal from one another.  The particular pool that we spent most time at near Chitabe was dominated for a while by a pair of Saddle-billed Storks. The pair were happy to share the pool with several smaller species of birds, but objected to the later presence of a flock of Yellow-billed Storks and some Pink-backed Pelicans, that joined in on the action. For almost an hour the two Saddle-billed Storks chased all the other storks and pelicans away, but eventually they either grew tired of the effort, or else they had caught enough fish for themselves.

Also seen was the interesting mantling behaviour of Black Heron and African Spoonbills with their peculiar feeding action working the shallower areas.

The birding action that we have observed will be happening all over the Okavango Delta over the next few months, and it will last until the annual floodwaters arrive and once again bring the sanctuary of deep water to all the beleaguered fish species.

The sable antelope, Hippotragus niger, has shown some dramatic declines in parts of its range in southern Africa. Despite fairly intensive study in the Kruger National Park and other areas, the reasons for these declines are imperfectly understood.

It is for this reason that an investigation into the home range and habitat use of the species has been initiated in the Vumbura area in the Okavango Delta. Here a relative stronghold of sable exists, allowing an investigation into what factors allow the species to thrive here. Michael Hensman, an MSc student from the University of Witwatersrand and HOORC (being jointly supervised by Prof Norman Owen-Smith and Dr Casper Bonyongo), has just begun his research project using the relatively new technology of Geographical Positioning Systems (GPS) collars to produce fine scale movement data from three different herds.

We have so far managed to fit two collars onto two sable cows and are indebted to the assistance of veterinarian Dr Dane Hawk and gyrocopter pilot Mark Muller without whom the exercise would not have been possible. Dr Casper Bonyongo also lent valuable field experience during the operation.

The first cow darted was part of a herd of 22 animals that use the area in the north-west of the Vumbura Concession around the airstrip. This herd is well known and is comfortable with vehicles, allowing a close enough approach for darting from a vehicle. After some initial challenges this cow was successfully darted, immobilised and collared by Dr. Hawk. All relevant measurements and samples were taken from the cow before she was ‘reversed’ and allowed to rejoin the rest of the herd. Further observations on that day, the following morning and subsequently, suggest she has recovered completely and has continued to hold her position as the dominant female within the herd.

The second cow darted was located from the air by Mark Muller who guided us into an area to the north-east of Vumbura Plains Camp. We eventually located the 15-strong herd in an area of open grassland within mopane woodland. We were again able to successfully dart a selected cow from the vehicle and following all checks and processing of the animal, Dr Hawk successfully revived her, allowing her to rejoin the herd without incident. She was again located the following day and found to be behaving normally.

The third herd intended for inclusion in the study had in the meantime moved into a temporarily inundated area we were unable to access. We will attempt a second operation later in September and are excited to see the results from this study and what role these might play in the conservation of this iconic species.

The sequence of adjoining images were all taken right from the deck of Savuti Camp which looks out over the currently flowing Savute Channel – one of the biggest events in Botswana in recent times. What has been even more interesting is how the elephant population has reacted to this rekindled water source.

I was deeply struck by the changes that have come about in both the environment and the elephant behaviour in the Linyanti Concession. In the years when the Channel was dry, from 1983 up until 2008, the onset of the dry season in June brought about a daily influx of elephants to the four artificially pumped waterholes that were situated along the dry river bed. Observation hides were in place at two of the waterholes, to enable up-close visuals with the thirsty elephants.

With the return of water to the Channel last year, this has all changed.  The narrow ribbon of grassland with a dusty river bed where the channel once flowed has now been replaced by soothing, clear water once again. The Channel is now flowing, bank to bank, and currently stretches for 60km, having just past the Chobe Cutline moving ever closer to the Savute Marsh. Hippos, waterbirds, catfish and water lilies have all recolonised the new water, with the Channel now even sharing wildlife affinities with the Okavango Delta.

Just as big a change has taken place with the elephants’ behaviour.

In years gone by, each waterhole would have been surrounded by thirsty, hot and agitated elephants. As there was often not enough water for all, the elephants would have to push, shove, and jostle their way to the head of the line, just to get a chance at a drink. All the water in the waterhole at Savuti Camp used to be consumed by around 11h00 each morning, and then the elephants would just place their trunk over the pipe transporting water to the hole, and drink directly from there.

Smaller elephants, or herds of females with young, would often have to stand for hours waiting for a turn, and if it came at all, it would often be brief, before a bigger bull would force them out of the way. All night, the air would be filled with the sounds of the thirsty elephants as they rumbled and trumpeted at their forced meeting place around the waterhole…

Today, the scene is very different. The Channel winds right past the front of Savuti Camp, and there is even water under the deck of the main area. The old log pile ‘hide’ is now almost in the river itself, and is hardly noticeable amongst the bright green grass.

There are still lots of elephants though, and they still come to drink in front of the camp.  What is so different now though is that their visit to the water is a happier, more relaxed event. From the camp’s main deck in the last week of July we watched a herd of 25 elephants slowly making their way to the water’s edge, some feeding on emergent vegetation as they moved along.  They entered the water, and for half an hour we enjoyed the spectacle of elephants drinking, play-fighting, swimming, standing and walking. They visibly ‘rejoiced’ in the changed conditions.

The experience was the same on all our game drives out of the camp. Instead of stressed herds competing for a few thousand litres of water, these elephants now have a lush, deep waterway from which to drink.

Certainly, none of us knows how long the Savute Channel will keep flowing, but while it does, it is a wonderful place to be: for the wildlife that lives here, and for those of us who are lucky enough to be able to spend time at Savuti Camp.

For more information on Savuti and other camps in Botswana, email land@karell.com or call 1 800 327 0373.

Legedema’s Cubs Come of Age
Mombo Camp, Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana
May 4, 2009
Photos courtesy of Peter Myburg

Pula and Maru are the 18-month-old cubs of the famous Legadema, female leopard star of the multi-award winning National Geographic documentary ‘Eye of the Leopard’.

As they reach their age of independence and are spending less and less time with their mother, all three leopards have of late been very difficult to find. This all changed towards the end of April when Legadema decided to bring both cubs into camp where they spent about three days. Pula, went so far during this time as to climb onto the main lodge deck while we were seated by the camp fire. Following a short, sniffing investigation, Pula turned back and walked down the walkway to the vehicle turning circle in front of camp.

The next day, Maru (the sister) and Legadema left but Pula stayed within the vicinity and was then followed to Limpy’s Island. She was found on a sub-adult impala carcass. Our initial thoughts were that Legadema must have made the kill but try as we might we could not locate either Legadema or Maru. It was then that we began to suspect that Pula had upgraded from squirrel kills to impala kills.

When Pete and Malinga later went to check on the carcass to see how much was left, the story unfolded further. On arrival they found Pula busy feeding and as they sat and watched, she suddenly bolted out of the tree in which the kill was hoisted.

Not knowing what was happening, the guides quickly manoeuvred sufficiently to notice a sub-adult impala ram that had wandered into the sighting, blissfully unaware of the leopard. Pula managed to leap up and grab the impala by the throat, pulling it down after a few seconds.

The inexperienced huntress then left the impala as if she had given up. The impala of course tried to run away and Pula sprang back into action, almost playing with the impala and practising all her inexpert techniques. Her instincts then told her that there might be someone hungry and bigger nearby and she finally dispatched the hapless impala and decided to take the whole kill up the same tree in which she had her first kill – and placed it right on top of the first kill without disembowelling it.

This was four days ago and today she was still in the same area with some of her bountiful windfall remaining.